Fabric Cutting

How do recommend cutting curtains for a polygon window, square on the bottom and angled across the top?

I have polygon windows that are square on the bottom and angled on the top, following the pitch of the roof. I need to make curtains for these that are 1.5 to 2 times wider than the window. I cannot hang curtains straight across as there is not enough room above the windows.

If I cut the fabric along the angle of the window, one side of the curtains will either be much too long, or much too short.

I am considering marking one side of the fabric so that it measures the length of the short side of the window, and the other so that it measures the length of the tall side of the window and drawing a line across. This will create an angle different from the top of the window, but I wonder, if when condensed to the width of the window, will it hang properly?

Thanks... I could really use some help and suggestions with this problem!

I would first buy a rod that has a pulley mechanism to move the curtains. This I would attach to the wall above the window, following the angle of the window, making sure that the pull cord is on the high side.

If you have never made curtains before, you need to be VERY CAREFUL with your measurements. First of all, measure the distance between the rod and the floor, and add one inch. This will give you the finished length of curtain you will need. (Adding the one inch allows for the bit of curtain that will be above the rod, once your pinch-pleating is made and the hooks inserted.)

You will cut your curtain to mimic the general shape of your window, only two to three times wider, depending on the amount of pleating done. You want the final finished product to lay exactly over your window, with the high end anchored in place, and no "extra" left over at the short end. Practise on a scrap piece of material to figure out how much actual length of material is going to be used to make each of your pleats (whether you decide on two pinchs or three pinches is up to you, and the final look you want).

(Say you decide on a style of pleat that, when sewn together covers 8 inches from the left side of the beginning of the pleat, to the left side of the beginning of the next pleat. This would mean 8 inches of lateral coverage per pleat. But when you undo that fabric, the piece actually opens out to 14 inches. Meaning that seven inches of actual length of fabric were used in the pleating, leaving seven inches to cover the lateral length between pleats.)

As I said, use a scrap piece of material (of the same thickness as the curtaining you are going to be putting up) to decide on what amount of pleating works best for you.

Then figure out how many pleats it would take to cover the length of the curtain rod. PLEASE NOTE: For the best "lay" of the finished product, it is best to both start and end a length of curtaining, with a flat (unpleated) section.

When making your pleats, you are going to have to be very conscious of angling them properly, so that they will always be on the perpendicular to the floor side. This means that every pleat will be shorter on the short side of the curtaining, than on the higher.

Once you have your curtain up and in place, it should make a very interesting effect when drawn. The bottom of the curtain SHOULD fall in ever higher (back and forth) waves until fully pulled against the higher side.

You will probably want a tie cord anchored about half way down the high side of the window, to hold the curtaining back father, once drawn open.

Again, maybe a look you are not exactly looking for. Another reason to experiment with a piece of inexpensive curtaining.

Don't forget to allow extra for all seam allowancing when making the initial cut on your material. Tall heavy drapery should always have a minimum of 4 inch hems on each end, allowing for a proper weight on the bottom to hold the curtain down, and a proper hem width at the top to allow for the proper volume in the pleating process.

I would be more inclined to handle the rectangle of the bottom of the window separate from the pointed triangular top. Probably allowing the top to be left uncovered, allowing natural light to come through there. (Unless there were higher neighbours on that side, that could still see in.)

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How can I remove the paper backing from fabric samples?

I was fortunate enough to have found a number of books of fabric samples---some silks, linens, cottons, and other fabrics. I would like to use them to make quilts, but these all have paper labels affixed to the backs and I would either have to remove the label or waste fabric by cutting around them. Does anyone know if there is a way to remove these without damaging the fabrics? They might soak off of the cottons, but the linens and silks are dry clean only.

Thank you for your time.

well I'm a guy and I was going to say soak them in water your not going to really wash them with soap YA I dont see why it would not work try one you really don't care for(sorry not much help)